The art of Chinese tea appreciation often cows many with a misconceived façade as an art that is hard to master, but really, the opposite is true: as one of the seven daily essentials for the older Cantonese people, tea appreciation is easily an integral part of the Chinese people's everyday life. Following our feature on tea leaves earlier, we have interviewed Mr Ip Wing-chi, who has been widely known as an aficionado of Yixing clay teapot. 

As a fine arts graduate of the Chinese University of Hong Kong in the 1970s, Ip stumbled upon a friendship with Dr Lo Kwee-seong, renowned tea art expert and a researcher on Yixing clay teapot at the university's Art Museum. The two created a company and introduced the teapots made with a sand exclusively found in Yixing, Jiangsu (also known as 'purple sand') into Taiwan, before promoting the teapot in Hong Kong in the 1980s, and founding Lock Cha Tea Shop Ltd. in 1991. But what exactly is it about the Yixing clay that makes the teapot so sought-after? "Function, shape and craftsmanship are the three elements that bound the relationship between tea and teapot," said Ip. "The Yixing clay teapot has superb insulation and so is the best partner for tea."

The Yixing Clay Teapot Untwined

The reason for Yixing clay's insulation power is that, really, it is sand, not clay. "This special type of sand is produced in a mine in Yixing," explained Ip. "While clay granules are round in shape, Yixing clay's granules are scaly in shape. The fact that the crystals are aligned rather loosely with less cohesion means that the surface of the teapot is covered in micro air pockets, which trap the air and contribute to its great insulation power." Moreover, Yixing clay teapot is not shaped by hand but pat into shape, with its surfaced smoothed. Which is why the Yixing clay teapot does not have the concentric pattern found in traditional teapots but radial scratch marks and visible granulars instead.

There are three types of Yixing clay: Zhisha (literally 'purple sand', in chocolate colour, with an iron content of 7-8%), Zhusha (literally 'cinnabar sand', in reddish brown colour, with an iron content of 4-5%), and Duan Ni (literally 'fortified clay', pale yellow in colour, with an iron content of 2-3%). "Zhisha is best suited for teas like old crop teas, Pu'er and Tieguanyin, which require a lengthier brew to bring out the flavour and aroma; while the thinner and delicate Zhusha is best suited for fragrant teas like Oolong. Duan Ni is in many ways similar to Zhisha, yet its less pleasant colour (light and therefore prone to exposure of tea stains) means its manufacturing volume is low," said Ip.

Pairing Tea and Teapots

"A teapot or porcelain lidded tea bowl is essential to making a good cup of tea," continued Ip. "There are mainly six types of tea – green, white, yellow, teal (Oolong), red, and black. Put simply, tea leaves lighter in colour tend to have a lighter, refreshing taste due to a shorter time of fermentation; while tea leaves in darker colour make darker coloured tea, and tend to have a stronger taste due to a longer time of fermentation. Tea leaves in darker colour require water of higher temperature to bring out their flavour, which is why they are best suited with bigger and thicker teapots, and the other way around is true. Meanwhile, it is also important to pair the shape of tea leaves with that of teapots: long-shaped tea leaves with elongated teapots, and round, compact leaves with round and tall teapots to allow space for expansion after they are brewed."

When brewing tea, be sure to brew only one type of tea with each teapot, and the flavour is further enhanced the smaller the size of the teapot. "Teapots the size of your palm are considered small, with a volume of about 80cc to 120cc; teapots the size of your fist are considered medium-sized, with a volume of 150cc to 300cc; big teapots with a volume of 400cc to 600cc are the ones we usually see at yum cha restaurants."

The Zhisha Aesthetics

The unique production method of the Yixing clay teapot means each teapot has its own character, and it is also the decisive factor of pricing. "The basic requirement for artefacts is their functionality. For instance, the spout should be so designed to deliver a moderate strength and not splash even when pouring from seven inches high; the lid can't be too loose or too tight, and it shouldn't leak," said Ip. "The form and design must be of the right balance, with visual appeal and artistic value. The material matters also, of course, and a standard Yixing clay teapot should have granules on its surface. Yixing clay teapots that are glazed with additional clay can still be beautiful, but they won't glitter."

"And then there is the craftsmanship, such as the seamless linkage of lines and joints. Meanwhile, the level of resemblance matters if the teapot is replicated from an actual object. Last but not least is the general aesthetic value, also the highest level of appreciation, which is the teapot's overall artistic conception."

What used to cost just half a dollar 40 years ago has come to be an exquisite auction item today. Yet while tea lovers swoon over this particular type of teapot, Ip is quick to offer some words of advice. "Tea ware isn't a stringent art – why stick to just Yixing clay teapot if the green tea brewed in a glass teapot is both refreshing and beautiful to look at? A material stays the way it is as a material, what is truly fascinating about teapot is its exhibition of the artist's personality and aesthetics, as well as a life fulfilled when exchanging knowledge with like-minded individuals through your exploration of teapots. Now that is the essence of the art of tea appreciation."

Join the Chinese tea and music gatherings held between 4 pm and 6 pm every Sunday at LockCha Tea House, if you wish to learn more about the Chinese tea culture from experts!

Special Thanks:
Ip Wing-chi, founder of Lock Cha Tea Shop Ltd.
www.lockcha.com